India is the most populous country and the largest democracy in the world. A low GDP per capita (gross domestic product) stands alongside immense economic strength in the fields of IT and pharmaceuticals. A country full of (apparent) contradictions: people who commute daily from the slums of Mumbai to work in suits, huge pilgrimage festivals with millions of believers, lived tribal traditions of the Adivasi, the indigenous population of India, and much more.
Due to its sheer size and cultural diversity, it is hardly possible to capture all facets of India in just a few weeks. Anyone traveling there is therefore well advised to focus on individual regions – and to experience them consciously. In this personal travel report, Elisabeth Kneissl-Neumayer presents her highlights of India.
The most important points in brief
- India is huge and culturally diverse. If you travel there, you should choose a few specific regions.
- This guide article presents three special places or regions: Rajasthan, Varanasi and Kerala.
- In Rajasthan, you will discover palaces, desert landscapes and ancient forts. Here you will feel transported back to the time of the maharajas.
- The city of Varanasi is considered the spiritual heart of India. At the ghats (steps) along the Ganges, you will discover daily life and important religious rituals.
- Kerala in the south offers nature, relaxation and tropical landscapes – ideal as a calm contrast to northern India.
- Be sure to consider the climate when planning your trip. Depending on the region, there are travel periods you should avoid.
- Those who visit India experience many contrasts: vibrant cities, deep spirituality and beautiful nature – often just a few hours apart by plane or train.
Rajasthan – royal northwest
Rajasthan is a state with a magical appeal, says Elisabeth Kneissl-Neumayer, managing director of Kneissl Touristik: “On my last trip, we started in the far south of the region – with a detour to Dungarpur. As in many places in the country, we stayed in a heritage hotel full of charming memories, admired the 19th-century palace on the shore of Lake Gaib Sagar, but also laughed at the fantastic extravagance of setting up a bar in the midst of a stately garage filled with unique vintage cars – with a view from the platform onto polished Rolls-Royces and much more.
The old fort of Dungarpur was founded as early as the 13th century as the ‘city of hills’. Anyone who enters through the inconspicuous gate is enveloped by a world of magnificent mirror mosaics, grand miniature paintings and lush colors – yet only a few visitors find their way here.
Udaipur
Much more well known is the city of Udaipur, located just two hours to the north – the Maharanas of the Sun clan built the most magnificent palace complex in Rajasthan here after the fall of their original seat – powerful, dignified, playful, the palace rises above Lake Pichola, which (as an artificial lake) was meant to reflect this splendor.
A tip from Elisabeth Kneissl-Neumayer: “One of the most beautiful documentary films by Andre Heller and Werner Herzog was created here – Jag Mandir, an ‘inventory of Indian folk art’. More than 2,000 artists gathered for a unique festival in Udaipur – recorded with all the humility that documentary filmmakers of the caliber of Werner Herzog and Andre Heller can bring. Anyone traveling to Rajasthan should definitely watch this masterpiece as preparation.
Walking through the streets of Udaipur, you experience the bustle of the bazaars, the lively activity around the Jagdish temple with its hundreds of god figures and the grandeur of the durbar halls and palace rooms. Following in the footsteps of James Bond – the film Octopussy was largely set in the ‘white city’ – you wander while visiting the two lake palaces that lie like glowing white jewels in the middle of Lake Pich
Aravallis
Northwest of Udaipur, you reach the Aravalli mountain range. At more than two billion years old, it is one of the oldest mountain ranges in India and stretches across northern India, acting here as a climate divide between the Thar desert and the more fertile east of the country. Passing small villages with tiny fields irrigated with buffalo-powered water wheels, you reach Ranakpur, one of the greatest wonders of Indian stone craftsmanship. The Jains are found in northern India particularly in Gujarat (Palitana) and Rajasthan (among others Mount Abu) – in the first half of the 15th century they used their influence to build their marble temples here in the seclusion of the Aravalli mountains: ivory-colored marble brought to the highest perfection. The Adinatha temple – built for the spiritual leaders of the Jains (Tirthankaras) – is supported by more than 1,440 marble columns, each uniquely decorated in an exuberant abundance of ornamentation. Here you experience firsthand what breathtaking means – what it means to be completely captivated by countless details.
Rohet Garh
The journey continues to Rohet Garh, home of a maharaja and a charming heritage hotel. Those seeking pure luxury can visit the palace of the maharaja’s son, Mihir Garh: a dream castle he fulfilled for himself on the sacred dunes of the warrior god of Marwar. Nine suites in the midst of the Thar desert offer all comforts within its austere beauty.
But Elisabeth Kneissl-Neumayer sought something else, namely “contact with the Bishnoi tribe, who already 500 years ago, thanks to a guru, committed themselves to the protection of all life. They recognized early on that deforestation advances the desert, that all life needs space, and that they live in close connection with animals and plants. Bishnoi means 29: they live according to 29 rules or commandments that demonstrate their absolute respect for all living things: do not cut trees, do not kill animals, think before you speak; but which also regulate questions of daily hygiene, education, or forgiving coexistence. The maharaja of Rohet is among those who support the Bishnoi, whether in court or before the state parliament, which is why we can visit several Bishnoi settlements around Rohet.
Mehrangarh Fort
Only about an hour north of Rohet Garh lies the Mehrangarh fort on a steep rock cliff above Jodhpur, the capital of the former kingdom of Marwar, now the second largest city in Rajasthan. Founded in the mid-15th century on a busy caravan route through which opium and copper, sandalwood and dates were transported westward, the fort rises like a crown above the blue old town. Originally only Brahmins would have used the blue house color – now it is imitated by everyone and gives the city its special flair with its many lively alleys and markets around the clock tower. The Mehrangarh fort fascinates with magnificent halls where, from the 17th century onward, everything that was fine and expensive was imported from Europe and integrated into the opulent style – Delft porcelain and Murano glass alongside Indian miniature painting.
Chhatra Sagar
A very special place to stay can be found between Jodhpur and Pushkar – the dam of Chhatra Sagar. A few years ago, luxury tents were set up on the dam crest in the beautiful surroundings, overlooking the small reservoir and the green oasis. Here you can not only get to know the interesting birdlife, but also gain insight into the everyday life of the farmers in the surrounding area, as well as rural customs and traditions.
Pushkar
From this lesser-known overnight stop, the journey continues to Pushkar, the city of 1,000 temples – a major Hindu pilgrimage destination on the edge of the Thar desert, on the shore of Lake Pushkar. The scenic lake, located between hills and dunes, draws its religious significance from a Brahma legend and is home to one of the few Brahma temples in India. At the time of the full moon in November, the town awakens from its calm for a few days and a lively festival atmosphere emerges – as a bustling market, one of the largest livestock markets in India, is held here with camels, buffaloes, horses and sheep. Thousands of pilgrims come to cleanse themselves of their sins in the sacred lake or to purchase livestock at the expansive market. Especially the Rajputs in colorful clothing are a highlight of the market – and the place and the fascinating festival are among the tourist highlights of Rajasthan. Somewhat luxurious tent camps are set up around the town, as the few hotels in the city would otherwise not be sufficient.
Here you can experience people during their morning prayers, listen to the loud haggling in the old town and markets, and finally enjoy the enchanting sunset.
Jaipur
Of course, the Pink City must not be missing – Jaipur, the fascinating pink capital of Rajasthan. When the Kachwahas found their old seat of Amber too cramped, Maharaja Jai Singh II had a new city built on the nearby plain in 1727, originally called Jainagara. According to ancient Hindu scriptures, it was intended to correspond to the ideal city. Despite numerous wars and conflicts with neighboring kingdoms, Mughal emperors and Maratha princes, the ruler still found time to devote himself to astronomy – he had five observatories (Jantar Mantar) built in the most important cities of India, far superior to the observatories of the Jesuits. The one in Jaipur is still fully functional today and, together with Amber and the city palace, is a UNESCO world heritage site. The same applies to the Hawa Mahal, the palace of winds, a facade with dozens of bay windows that allowed the women of the royal palace quarters to observe street festivals without being seen themselves.
Why the city became ‘pink’ is quickly explained: a visit by the English prince Albert Edward (later King Edward VII) bathed the city in the color of hospitality – a pink-ochre shade that is still celebrated throughout the city today.
Varanasi – Indiens Seele
From Rajasthan, a detour to Varanasi in the neighboring northeastern state of Uttar Pradesh is worthwhile. The city is the most important pilgrimage site for Hindus. Pilgrims bathe in the sacred Ganges. For them, the water cleanses not only the body but also the soul. Varanasi is also known as the city of death: it represents peaceful dying and good chances of a successful reincarnation.
Thanks to restoration and careful maintenance, the ghats, the steps leading down to the river, have become cleaner and better preserved.
Ikonische Kashi Ghats
The Kashi ghats along the Ganges are considered the most spiritual and iconic part of Varanasi. Standing here is like a journey into the past. Faith, life and eternity seem to flow into one another. People come to pray – the sound of bells and light ceremonies testify to profound spirituality – and to enjoy the beautiful sunrises and sunsets. The Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats show another side of life, reminding of the cycle of life and liberation (moksha).
Our insider tip: a boat ride on the Ganges to observe the scenes of temples, priests and pilgrims along the riverbank at leisure. Ideally, start early in the morning in the mist.
Kerala – where India becomes quiet
The state of Kerala lies in the southeast of India, on the coast of the Arabian sea. It is characterized by:
- Tea, spice and coffee plantations
- Tropical rainforests with rich flora and fauna
- The backwaters
- Sandy beaches and palm trees
The region is well developed for tourism, with many traditional accommodations as well as options to stay in private guesthouses. Another charming option is an overnight stay on a houseboat.
Morning atmosphere in the backwaters
The morning atmosphere in the backwaters, a branching network of rivers, canals and lagoons, can best be described in one scene.
It is before sunrise, a milky mist lies over the canals. The houseboat glides silently through the water – no engine noise, only the rhythmic dipping of a wooden oar. Palm trees appear as dark silhouettes against the brightening sky. The first plumes of smoke rise from simple houses on the shore.
The scent of damp earth, coconut and wood fire fills the air. A fisherman stands knee-deep in the water and throws his net in a wide arc, while school boats – narrow canoes – take children in pressed uniforms to the other bank and women in bright saris wash laundry on stone steps. A temple gong sounds softly from afar.
Gradually, the sky turns from gray to apricot and the water becomes a mirror for palm trees, clouds and light. Herons and kingfishers fly just above the surface. Everything feels slowed down and calm.
On the upper deck of the boat, there is a cup of south Indian coffee, while the scent of cardamom and cloves wafts over from the galley. No honking, no crowds – only the gentle lapping of waves against the wood: after the many impressions from Rajasthan and the intensity of Varanasi, Kerala feels like an exhale.
When is the best time to travel to India?
The best time to travel to the north (such as Rajasthan and Varanasi) is considered to be the months from October to March. In summer it can get quite hot here and the humidity is high, especially during the monsoon. This also applies to Kerala: the ideal travel time for southern India is considered to be December to February, when temperatures are pleasant and rainfall is moderate.
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