Fascination India
A declaration of love for Rajasthan by an avid traveler – or: Culture in India is a staple food
Whenever I try to convey my enthusiasm for India (no matter which region of the subcontinent) to clients, two topics often come up immediately: there is so much visible poverty – and, especially recently – how can a woman even travel there...
India, like all emerging countries, faces numerous political and economic challenges. The second most populous country in the world (1.292 billion people), divided into 29 states that cover almost the entire subcontinent, is the world’s largest democracy. An extremely low gross domestic product stands alongside immense economic strength in IT and pharmaceuticals. People commuting daily from the slums of Mumbai to work in suits – massive pilgrimages with millions of devotees – living tribal traditions of the Adivasi, India’s indigenous population... Contradictions – or apparent contradictions – that don’t always make India easy for tourists, but reveal countless charms.
But back to my declaration of love – Incredible India is the slogan of the tourism board, and for me, it rings true in many ways: incredible, astonishing, overwhelming, and breathtaking, as incomparable as a kaleidoscope. And I still feel all of this when I travel through Rajasthan, the state that seems to magically draw me in. On my last trip, we started in the far south of the state – with a detour to Dungarpur: Like in many places in the country, we stayed in a heritage hotel full of charming memories, admired the 19th-century palace on the shores of Gaibsagar Lake, and laughed at the fantastic extravagance of turning a grand garage full of vintage cars into a bar – with a view from the lift platform over the polished Rolls Royces and more. The old fort of Dungarpur was founded in the 13th century as the “City of Hills” – those who step through the modest gate enter a world of magnificent mirror mosaics, grand miniature paintings, and lush colors – yet few visitors find their way here.
Udaipur
Much better known is the city of Udaipur, just two hours north by car – the Maharanas of the Sun Clan built Rajasthan’s most magnificent palace complex here after the fall of their ancestral seat – powerful, dignified, and playful, the palaces rise above Lake Pichola, an artificial lake meant to reflect this splendor. One of the most beautiful documentaries by André Heller and Werner Herzog – Jag Mandir, an “inventory of Indian folk art” – was filmed here. The current Maharana wanted to show his son the country and its art – not as luxury, but as a basic necessity – before India succumbed to “McDonaldization.” More than 2,000 artists gathered for a unique festival in Udaipur – captured with the humility that filmmakers like Herzog and Heller bring. Anyone traveling to Rajasthan should definitely watch this masterpiece as preparation!
Walking through the alleys of Udaipur, we experience the bustle of the bazaar streets, the lively activity around the Jagdish Temple with its hundreds of deity figures, and the grandeur of the Durbar Halls and palace rooms. Following in the footsteps of James Bond, we visit the two lake palaces that lie like glowing white jewels in the middle of Lake Pichola.
Aravallis
Northwest of Udaipur, we reach the Aravalli mountain range – at over 2 billion years old, one of India’s oldest mountain ranges, stretching across northern India and acting as a climate divide between the Thar Desert and the more fertile east. Passing small villages with tiny fields laboriously irrigated by buffalo-powered water wheels, we arrive in Ranakpur, one of the greatest marvels of Indian stone carving. The Jains, mainly found in Gujarat (Palitana) and Rajasthan (e.g., Mt. Abu), used their influence in the early 15th century to build their marble temples in the seclusion of the Aravallis: ivory-colored marble brought to perfection. The Adinatha Temple – built for the spiritual leaders of the Jains (Tirthankaras) – is supported by more than 1,440 marble columns, each uniquely and lavishly decorated. Here, one truly understands what “breathtaking” means – to be utterly captivated by countless details!
Rohet Garh
Our journey continues to Rohet Garh, home to a Maharaja and a charming heritage hotel. For pure luxury, one can visit the palace of the Maharaja’s son, Mihir Garh – a dream castle he built on the sacred dunes of Marwar’s warrior god. Nine suites in the middle of the Thar Desert offer every comfort amidst its stark beauty. But we seek something else – contact with the Bishnoi tribe, who, thanks to a guru, committed themselves to protecting all life 500 years ago. They recognized early on that deforestation drives desertification, that all life needs space, and they live in close harmony with animals and plants. Bishnoi means 29 – they live by 29 rules/commandments that reflect their deep respect for all living beings: do not cut trees, do not kill animals, think before you speak; they also govern daily hygiene, education, and forgiving coexistence. The Maharaja of Rohet is among those who advocate for the Bishnoi, whether in court or before the state parliament, allowing us to visit several Bishnoi settlements around Rohet.
Mehrangarh Fort
Just an hour’s drive north of Rohet Garh lies Mehrangarh Fort on a steep cliff above Jodhpur, the capital of the former kingdom of Marwar and now Rajasthan’s second-largest city. Founded in the mid-15th century on a busy caravan route that carried opium, copper, sandalwood, and dates westward, the fort rises like a crown above the blue old town. Originally, only Brahmins used the blue house color – now everyone imitates it, giving the city its special flair with its many lively alleys and markets around the clock tower. Mehrangarh Fort fascinates with opulent halls where, from the 17th century onward, everything fine and expensive from Europe was imported and integrated into the lavish style – Delft porcelain and Murano glass alongside Indian miniature painting.
Chhatra Sagar
A very special overnight spot awaits between Jodhpur and Pushkar – the Chhatra Sagar dam. A few years ago, luxury tents were set up on the dam crest in the beautiful surroundings, overlooking the small reservoir and the green oasis. Here, one can not only discover fascinating birdlife but also gain insight into the everyday life of the surrounding farmers, rural lifestyles, and traditions.
Pushkar
After the lesser-known overnight stop, we continue to Pushkar, the city of a thousand temples – a top-tier Hindu pilgrimage site on the edge of the Thar Desert, nestled along the shores of Pushkar Lake. This picturesque lake, set between hills and dunes, holds religious significance tied to a Brahma legend and is home to one of the few Brahma temples in India. During the full moon in November (November 14–23, 2015), the town awakens from its usual tranquility, and a bustling festive atmosphere takes over as one of India’s largest livestock fairs is held here – with camels, buffaloes, horses, and sheep. Thousands of pilgrims arrive to cleanse themselves of their sins in the holy lake or to trade livestock at the expansive market. The Rajputs, dressed in vibrant traditional attire, are a highlight of the fair – and the town and its fascinating festival are among Rajasthan’s top tourist attractions. Fairly luxurious tent camps are set up around the city, as the few hotels in town would not suffice. We quietly observe people during their morning prayers, experience the lively haggling in the old town and markets, and finally enjoy the magical sunset.
Jaipur
Of course, we can’t skip the Pink City – Jaipur, the fascinating rose-colored capital of Rajasthan. When the Kachwaha rulers found their old seat in Amber too cramped (which is hard to believe given its vastness), Maharaja Jai Singh II founded a new city in the nearby plains in 1727, originally named Jainagara. It was designed to reflect the ancient ideals of a perfect city as described in Hindu literature. Despite numerous wars and conflicts with neighboring kingdoms, the Mughal emperors, and the Maratha princes, the ruler still found time to pursue astronomy – he built five observatories (Jantar Mantar) in major Indian cities, which far surpassed the Jesuit observatories. The one in Jaipur remains fully functional today and, along with Amber and the City Palace, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Also included is the Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds – a façade with dozens of oriel windows that allowed the women of the royal palace quarters (called zenana) to observe street festivals without being seen themselves.
Why the city became “pink” is quickly explained – a visit by British King Edward VII led to the city being painted in the color of hospitality – a pink-ochre hue that is still celebrated throughout the city today.
There is so much more to tell about this kaleidoscope of colors, artists, tribes, languages, and landscapes in Rajasthan – just dive in and experience this overwhelming world for yourself!